Although much of the country is still bundled up in its warmest winter coat, make no mistake about it: Spring is almost here. How can you tell, when there’s still bitter wind in the Midwest and more than two feet of snow in parts of New England? Easy. The shad, they are a-swimmin’.

They do it every year. Like salmon and striped bass, they spend their entire adult lives living at sea. Then, come spring, they swim upstream from the Atlantic Ocean towards the freshwater streams and rivers where they were born, inland on the Atlantic coast. There, they reproduce. Like strawberries in summer and squash in the winter, the result is a seasonal treat — shad roe — that’s worth looking forward to every year.
It’s hard to go wrong with roe. Sturgeon eggs make delicious black caviar. Salmon eggs, meanwhile, make sumptuous red caviar. Cod roe is the stuff of excellent taramosalata and tuna roe of fantastic botarga.
Shad roe, however, is especially savory — if for no other reason than because it’s so rare. While one can usually enjoy caviar or cod roe year-round, the shad roe season is short. Really short, in fact, as it typically lasts just a few months, from March until May, while the shad are making their run as far south as the Chesapeake Bay and as far north as southern New England.
The time is now, therefore, to steal a taste of this fleeting American delicacy. Be on the lookout for it on your favorite fine-dining menus. When you see it this spring, order it … while you still can, that is. You won’t regret it. Although it probably won’t look especially delicious to the shad roe newbie — inside the large, double roe sacs are millions of tiny fish eggs that are held together inside a thin and gooey-looking membrane — the taste is pure perfection. Fresh, like the sea.
Even shad’s Latin name — sapidissima — is delicious, meaning “most savory.”
Most savory, indeed. If you see us out to dinner this spring, don’t be surprised if you see us crooning the words of Ella Fitzgerald, who sang in her famous standard, Let’s Do It (Let’s Fall in Love), “Waiter, bring me shad roe!”















