Personally, I make no apologies for being a Francophile.  Or, perhaps more to the point, a Franco-foodie.  To me everything tastes better with a French accent.  After all, why have French fries when you can have frites?  And who needs pepper steak when steak aux poivres is on the menu? 

For pure French cuisine there is really is nothing quite like the classic Bistro, where the preparation and serving of traditional French dishes is elevated to high art.  Happily, if you live in New York you don’t need to hop on a plane to enjoy your cuisse de canard or tarte tatin.  Not since internationally acclaimed chef Alain Ducasse opened Benoit, the classic French Bistro on West 55^th Street in the heart of Midtown. 

 

 

In France, the bistro experience is often casual, an inviting neighborhood restaurant serving traditional dishes but always in the most refined way. 

There is an elaborate vase at the entrance to the dining room at Benoit that symbolizes to me all that is special about the French Bistro experience.  An art nouveau fantasy of wading birds and flowers that reaches all the way to the ceiling, it is over the top in a way that only the French can make to seem mundane.  This is the essence of the French Bistro, and of Benoit - traditional French cuisine made to extraordinary standards of quality and freshness, and impeccable service and refinement rendered in the most inviting and unfussy way.   It is the extraordinary rendered ordinary, and the ordinary rendered extraordinary.

The New York incarnation of Benoit is an authentic descendant of generations of bistros that forged this delicious union of French cuisine and conviviality.  The original Benoit opened in Paris in 1912.  It was purchased by Alain Ducasse in 2005 and quickly became one of the hot tables in a city of hot tables. 

The New York Benoit opened in 2008 in the former location of the legendary restaurant La Cote Basque.  Its menu is true to the traditions and techniques of classic bistro cuisine.  Classic appetizers such as pate en croute,  duck foie gras, and escargots are all on the menu, along with traditional main courses such as duck a l’orange and steak aux poivre.  Also on the menu is one of my favorite French desserts, vanilla millefeuille.  I say one of, because I love all French desserts, and have been known on occasion to walk into a French patisserie for a quick snack, only to walk out a few minutes later with a shopping bag full of goodies.  I take the philosophy that life is short, so try a little of everything, and always order dessert.

That was the philosophy of our little dining group when we visited Benoit last Friday night.  We tried the quenelles de brochet, which was light as a feather and loaded with rich flavor from the classic Nantua sauce, and also the roast chicken with garlic cloves and French fries (je m’excuse, I meant to say frites!).  Although in France frites are generally served with fresh mayonnaise, our very French waiter was most deferential to our American palates, offering a side of ketchup before I even had the chance to ask (I took the mayo anyway). 

Here is a little insider tip on dessert, by the way.  Be extra nice to your server.  If he likes you he may let you try one of their off-the-menu desserts, like the chocolate cake I had with passion fruit cream filling and mango sorbet.  It was incroyable.  Or perhaps I should say formidable.  I can never remember the difference!  Well let’s just say it was the piece de resistance.  You won’t be disappointed.

Benoit will be open this Easter Sunday 4/12/09, from 11 A.M. to 8 P.M.  In addition to their a la carte menu, there will be special house made candies for the kids, and live accordion music at the bar.  Happy holiday and bon appétit. 

Rob Lubin