Christophe Émé, previously of L’Orangerie in Los Angeles—one of the finest French restaurants in town—has had a stellar career, working under Phillppe Legendre at Taillevent in Paris, a three-star Michelin restaurant; assisting in opening Normandie Grill in Bangkok at the Hotel Oriental, where he worked with Jean-Claude Vrinat; and working at Auberge des Templiers in Loire Valley, a two-star Michelin restaurant. Émé's also cooked alongside Marc Veyrat at three-star Auberge de l’Eridan in the French Alps. Now, at his own restaurant, he produces modern French cuisine without all the pretense. You may start your meal with a glass of champagne and one of four types of bread, but don’t fill up too early, as you have a lot of fabulous choices ahead of you. And because the cuisine is light, absent a lot of heavy creams and sauces, you should be able to try several of them before you proclaim yourself, "full." One other thing to note about the menu: It's not the traditional split between appetizers and main courses; one can tell what's what from prices, but the menu is organized in order to encourage a dialogue between the server and the diner—and it works, as servers are incredibly knowledgeable about Chef Émé’s creations. Please note an 18 percent gratuity is added to parties of seven or more. Below are sample menus from the winter and summer selections.

Signature Dishes: Crispy Langoustines (basil, chickpea and a shot of minestrone, $24); Pork Confit "Maine-et-Loire" in Three Ways (spaghetti carbonara and bell pepper, $34).

Menu Plaisir: Baby Scallop with Morel (baby potato and chicken broth emulsion, $21); Marinated Tuna with Eggplant Caviar (nicoise-style salad, $23); Macaron of Foie Gras Confit (marble of black truffle, $25); Hamachi Tartare with Crispy Citrus and Osetra Caviar (red and green bell pepper, ginger and lemongrass, $21); Seared Napa Valley Escargot (lettuce emulsion and parmesan crust, $19); Osetra Caviar (blinis, classic accompaniments and chilled Belvedere vodka, $115); Seared Sea Bass with Spinach Cannelloni (marrow bone, Swiss chard and beef jus, $38); Roasted John Dory with Potato Gnocchi (black truffle, scallion and arugula sauce, $38); Maine Lobster with White Asparagus (morel with spring vegetables, $47); Roast Duck Supreme with Leg Confit (turnip, sweet potato and Brussels sprout, $36); Pan Roasted Chicken Breast (stuffed tomato, lemon, caper and panisse, $34); Roast Squab with Macaroni Gratin (tapenade salad and crispy leg confit, $36); Filet of Beef with Oxtail Ravioli (paleron, marrow bone, pomme soufflé, $41); Lamb Pastilla (white bean with rosemary tomato confit and mint salad; for two, $36 per person).