The first thing you will notice from the menu at Silver's is that it is friendly, styled with its readers-you-in mind. It's written as if someone was writing a special menu for your very special birthday party. The menu is very entertainingly written, with flowing language and lovely highlights, such as, "We love you right back." One wonders, was Wellins also an English major? If one could treasure a menu, this would surely be the one to treasure. Wellins considers the portions at Silver's "lavish," and lavish they are-this could be dinner, if only (and we hope) it were open at dinner. It used to be, but in 1998 Wellins decided to serve only lunch-a loss for anyone looking for a good evening meal in Southampton.

In addition to its regular menu, Silver's also serves "extravagant pleasures" such as Russian Ossetra Caviar, with toasts, sour cream and chopped scallions for $130. This kind of dish isn't something seen frequently in the Hamptons, but when that special occasion calls for it, this is the place to find it. The menu is split between the regular menu and specials A 20 percent gratuity is included only for parties of four or more. Splitting plates requires a $3 charge, but if you split the signature lobster roll, that requires a $10 charge-all of which one would tend to consider "worth it," especially when you order wine with your meal, as the wine pour is extremely generous. Dining here is an "experience."